My Treks in the Western Himalayas

I reached back to the village where I stayed.

It was like being back home…

I didn’t want to go back further down to civilization. But like I true nomad, I had learned to live outside the impact of the societal human life while being inside it.

“Several times I was threatened with a successful business career, but each time I escaped again into the wilderness.”
― John Muir

That was my Himachal trekking experience.

It was wonderful, enriching, soulful, refreshing, and adventurous. I knew I would be back there. But for now, it was time for the next experience.

Until then,

Live Free. Nomadic Dev.

UPDATE: ITINERARY DETAILS

Many have asked for the travel details and itinerary of this trip.

So here you go:

• I started my journey from Delhi. Overnight train from Delhi to Pathankot called Dhauladhar Express after the mountain range in the Himachal.
• At Pathankot, walk from the railway station to the bus stand. On the way, you will see some military gear shops on the left. Get your trekking equipment there. They’re better quality and cheaper than renting.
• From Pathankot bus station, take a bus to Dharamshala and from there, you will either get a bus directly to Naddi village or you may have to change one at McLeod Ganj.
• Alternatively, you can go from Dharamshala to McLeod Ganj by bus and then trek from McLeod Ganj to Naddi village. It’s a short but beautiful trek.
• In Naddi village, stay at Himalayan Homestay (By Mr. Rajendar) or ask Pankaj Bhai (who runs Fauji Cafe) for a room. For one person, you should not spend more than INR 700 for accommodation. If you’re in a group, head to Shova’s Nest run by Mr. RK Singh. Mr. Singh is the friendliest and most helpful person in the entire Naddi village.
• Also, eat your meals at Fauji cafe. They have a great vibe.
• Naddi doesn’t have a print-out or internet shop but there’s a touristy spot just a 1 km before Naddi called the Dal Lake where you can find 2 internet cafes. This is just additional info if you’re crazy like me and traveling without a phone.
• Watch the sunset at Naddi and the next day, begin your trek from Naddi to Kareri Village. Take the longer and more beautiful route which goes through Gatedi village (It’s not too long; around 6–7 kms). Don’t take the one which goes through Ghera.
• After crossing Gatedi village, you’ll cross a beautiful river stream and continue your trek by crossing the mountain after the river, until you join the main road. Cross the road and continue in the mountain shortcuts to reach Kareri.
• At Kareri village, stay at Maan Homestay. A very friendly family with great home food. Mr. Maan has been a trekker himself and has immense knowledge to share. Double rooms should be between INR 1000 to 1200 and it can be negotiated for a single person close to half the price. Eat food at home and tip them well. Each meal per person should be around INR 100.
• Enjoy an evening in Kareri Village and go to the ‘Out Of the World’ cafe on the market road (the only road in the village) and enjoy some ginger tea with a very friendly cafe staff and owner.
• Next morning, have breakfast at Maan Homestay (Mr. Maan’s wife cooks amazing food) and then start the Kareri Lake trek from the homestay (total distance: 11 kms). You can also ask her to pack lunch for the way or to eat at the lake.
• On the trek, try not to stop for food or tea until Rioti which is the mid-point of the trek. There are 2 cafes at Rioti where you can take a break and have some tea. The first cafe near the bridge has better views and beautiful dogs as well as a portable toilet you can use if you wish.
• If you need a guide for the trek, ask for Deepu Bhai who is Mr. Maan’s Damaad. He’s probably the friendliest and most skilled guide I’ve seen in that region. I met him on my solo trek as he was guiding a group.
• Everyone in this region is very friendly they’re part of the ‘Gaddi’ community, one of the friendliest people you’ll meet.
• You can get the trail from Kareri village to Kareri lake on Maps.me, thanks to Inditramp.
• Once you reach Kareri Lake, you’ll lose all your tiredness. Enjoy the beautiful views and camp there overnight. It’s really important to stay overnight to get the full experience.
• You can carry a sleeping bag and mat and sleep near the temple. It’s cold and there are no doors or windows or proper roofs in the temple stay.
• Alternatively, you can carry your tent and pitch it on the various potential camping sites around the lake. This is a better option.
• Please don’t leave anything in the hills. Carry your rubbish and stuff back with you. There isn’t a proper garbage disposal system there as you’re in the lap of the Himalayas so make sure you get it back to the village and dispose of properly.
• You can continue your trek beyond Kareri Lake to Laam Dal Lake if the weather and your body permits. It’s better if you have a guide for this one.
• There is a shop at the temple where you can get basic stuff and perhaps even food as I’ve heard. Everything was closed due to weather conditions while I was there hence I’d have no first-hand food reviews from this shop, nor would it matter to me.
• The next morning, trek back to Kareri village. From the village, head back to your base village Naddi. You can either trek back or take the shared jeeps from Kareri to Ghera and a bus from Ghera to Dharamshala and then to Naddi.
• Watch the sunset at Naddi again and wake up early to watch the sunrise from the other side.
• After sunrise and breakfast, start your trek to Guna Devi Temple. This is a local temple and you will find food on the way. No need to pack any food or drink for this one.
• The trek begins at Naddi and takes you to the river crossing in the valley close to Naddi. You can rest at the river cafes and then begin the uphill trek to the temple.
• It’s a one hour trek and you can eat at the temple. You can also stay overnight at the temple Dharamshala but I chose to stay at Bal Village.
• Trek from the temple to Bal Village is a simple, short, and beautiful way. Look for Vishal Bhai or Sonu Bhai. You will be staying at Sonu Bhai’s home. It’ll cost you around INR 500 for one person and INR 100 for each meal.
• Alternatively, look for Mahendra Bhai. He’s a celebrity mountaineer of the village and was building a big homestay when I visited him. He also has great stories to tell.
• The next morning, enjoy breakfast at Bal Village and trek back to base village Naddi.
• From Naddi, take the ‘Boh Valley’ bus to ‘Boh Valley’. This will be our base for the next trek.
• Once in the bus, ask the conductor that you need a homestay in Boh. He’ll drop you a kilometer before the last stop (which is the pull) and you can stay there. I stayed at a contact’s home in their village near the trek.
• If you’re in a group, contact Tarsem Bhai for a great camping experience. He’s very friendly with the sweetest family and he has made Boh Valley come on the adventure and exploration maps.
• The next morning, start your trek to Khabru Waterfall. You can carry food with you if you wish to do a mini-picnic at the waterfall as I couldn’t find any shops on the way. Make sure you do this trek early morning and start by 7 or 8 AM to get the best out of it.
• Make sure you take a bath in the pool at the base of the waterfall. The water there heals you completely.
• The same day or next morning, head back to base village Naddi. Enjoy the sunset one last time on your trip.
• Take the overnight bus from Mcleodganj back to Delhi.

I’ve mentioned the approximate costs in the post. You will be spending around INR 1000 per day on average. I spent around INR 5000 for a week’s trip since I had very few requirements and 30% of the budget went into tipping the locals and villagers. I come back to my country only a few times each year and that’s the time I wish to do this for the locals. Not just for their sake but because I want to. Please be nice, friendly, and giving to the locals. And keep nature clean.

IMPORTANT PEOPLE: (Ask me for contact info if needed at devrishabh@gmail.com)

Naddi:
Mr. R.K Singh (Owner of Shova’s Nest)
Mr. Dheeraj (Son of Mr. Singh, Group Organiser)
Mr. Rajendar (Owner Himalayan Homestay)
Mr. Sumit (Good collection of fair-priced wine)
Mr. Pankaj (Runs Fauji Cafe)
Mr. Gaurav Singh (Salon owner, great haircuts and head massage)

Kareri:
Mr. Maan (Owner Maan Homestay)
Mr. Deepu (Guide and trek organizer)
Mr. Sanjay or Santosh (known by both names, runs the shop at the lake)

Guna Devi Mandir:
Rajesh or Billu Panditji (Temple priest)

Bal Village:
Mr. Vishal (homestay/accommodation)
Mr. Mahendar (Mountaineer and homestay owner)
Mr. Sonu (Homestay owner and trek organizer)

Boh Valley:
Mr. Tarsem (Boh valley ambassador & camping organizer)